Understanding how pearls are graded reveals the precision behind their beauty.
At PEARL VOGUE, each grade reflects a delicate balance of luster, surface perfection, nacre depth, and symmetry — the qualities that define the world’s finest pearls.
Pearl Grading
Japanese Akoya Pearl Grading
Description:
Japanese Akoya pearls are cultured pearls produced by the Pinctada fucata martensii oyster and are traditionally evaluated using nacre-based grading standards.
Their value is determined by a balance of luster quality, nacre thickness, surface cleanliness, and roundness.
In high-grade Akoya pearls, luster and nacre thickness are considered more important than size, as superior nacre is responsible for the mirror-like reflection and long-term durability of the pearl.
Certifications such as Hanadama and Aurora Hanadama represent pearls that meet the highest visual and structural criteria, with independently verified brilliance, surface quality, and nacre depth.
While size and overtone influence aesthetic preference, the finest Akoya pearls are defined by optical sharpness, consistency, and precision rather than scale, reflecting Japan’s meticulous pearl cultivation and grading tradition.
White & Golden South Sea Pearl Grading
Description:
South Sea pearls are cultivated primarily in the waters of Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, produced by the Pinctada maxima oyster.
They are valued for their large size, soft satin-like luster, and naturally thick nacre.
In high-grade South Sea pearls, overall presence—defined by size, luster quality, and nacre depth—is considered more important than perfect surface uniformity.
Minor natural characteristics are acceptable when they do not detract from the pearl’s visual harmony and glow.
Due to their slow growth cycle and limited annual harvest, exceptional South Sea pearls are evaluated as individual gems, with emphasis on proportion, luminosity, and rarity rather than standardized benchmarks.
Tahitian Pearl Grading
Description:
Tahitian pearls are cultivated in French Polynesia and produced by the Pinctada margaritifera oyster.
While often referred to as “black pearls,” their value lies in a spectrum of natural dark body colors combined with complex overtones.
In high-grade Tahitian pearls, color depth, overtone complexity, and luster are considered more important than absolute darkness or uniform hue.
Pearls exhibiting peacock, green, aubergine, or multi-hued overtones are particularly prized when paired with sharp surface reflection.
Rather than being defined by a single color standard, the finest Tahitian pearls are evaluated for optical richness, balance, and individuality, reflecting the diverse natural palette of Polynesian waters.
GRANPEARL / SUPEARL by PEPCA
Since 2008, the Japan Pearl Export and Processing Cooperative Association (PEPCA) has overseen professional testing and certification for high-quality pearls, ensuring authenticity and consumer trust across Japan’s pearl industry.
Under PEPCA’s strict Select standard, only the most exceptional pearls — typically less than 0.03% of total annual production — achieve official recognition.
Between 2008 and 2017, PEPCA refined its evaluation framework and introduced two ultimate designations:
GRANPEARL and SUPEARL, representing the pinnacle of pearl perfection and rarity.
Classification:
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GRANPEARL:
Awarded to pearls of the highest refinement, distinguished by outstanding surface purity, exceptional luster, and harmonious shape.
Each GRANPEARL meets the Select threshold of near-absolute flawlessness — a balance of brilliance and natural authenticity.
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SUPEARL:
Reserved for the rarest among Select pearls — those virtually immaculate even under magnification.
Every SUPEARL embodies nature’s finest equilibrium between luminosity, symmetry, and depth of nacre.
Evaluation and Standards
PEPCA’s expert committee evaluates each pearl according to five key criteria:
luster, surface quality, shape, imperfections, and color.
Only pearls that surpass all benchmarks receive the Select certification, with the most exceptional advancing to GRANPEARL or SUPEARL distinction.
Each certified strand or loose pearl is accompanied by an official PEPCA Gold or Silver Label, signifying the specific grade achieved.
This dual-tier system enhances transparency for jewelers, collectors, and connoisseurs, distinguishing PEPCA-certified pearls from market variations.
Legacy and Significance
Through decades of refinement, PEPCA has established an enduring benchmark for Japanese pearl grading — one that upholds the values of craftsmanship, integrity, and rarity.
Today, the GRANPEARL and SUPEARL designations represent not merely grades, but the culmination of Japan’s pursuit of perfection in cultured pearls.
Conch Pearl Grading
Description:
Conch pearls are entirely natural, non-nacreous gemstones formed within the Queen Conch (Strombus gigas).
Unlike cultured pearls, they do not follow nacre-based grading systems.
Conch pearl grading is based on visual evaluation, with primary emphasis on flame pattern definition, color saturation, and overall optical presence.
In practice, in collector-grade conch pearls, flame pattern clarity and color intensity are considered more important than absolute surface perfection.
Minor natural characteristics, when they do not interrupt flame continuity or overall form, are generally accepted among serious collectors.
Due to their extreme rarity—fewer than one in ten thousand Queen Conch naturally produce pearls, and only a small fraction meet collector standards—each high-quality conch pearl is evaluated as an individual gem rather than against mass-market benchmarks.
Mabe Pearl Grading
Description:
Mabe pearls are cultured blister pearls formed against the shell of the oyster, resulting in a distinctive domed silhouette rather than a full spherical shape.
They are valued for their large visual presence, luminous surface, and sculptural profile.
In high-quality Mabe pearls, luster clarity, dome symmetry, and surface integrity are considered more important than thickness or traditional roundness.
Their appeal lies in visual impact and design versatility rather than conventional pearl grading metrics.
When expertly selected and set, Mabe pearls offer a refined balance of scale, light reflection, and artistic expression, making them particularly suited for statement rings, pendants, and contemporary high jewelry designs.